From the Pearl River to the Great Wall: A Solo 2,000-Kilometer Cycling Journey in Autumn 2019

Meta Description: Discover one cyclist's epic 2,000-km solo journey from Guangzhou to Beijing in autumn 2019. Read about daily challenges, narrow escapes, and the freedom of the open road.

Introduction: Why a Solo Cycling Journey from Guangzhou to Beijing?

In the autumn of 2019, while most travelers planned short getaways for China's National Day holiday, I chose a different path. I dragged my bicycle down the stairs of my Guangzhou apartment, ready to embark on a 15-day, 2,000-kilometer cycling journey northward to Beijing. This wasn't a spur-of-the-moment decision—it was a long-brewing conversation with myself about freedom, solitude, and the open road.

Originally, I'd planned a Hainan island loop with cycling buddies. But plans changed. Someone had a last-minute conflict. Another headed home to Hunan. Then it hit me: that idea I'd been carrying in the back of my mind for so long—"cycle to Beijing"—finally felt right. So I set off, first with a friend who would veer west toward Hunan, then alone toward that capital so many dream of.

Before leaving, I wrote in my diary: "I don't dwell on whether I'll succeed. Since I've chosen the distant horizon, I'll press on through wind and rain. Every faraway place holds a kind of allure for me. Even if the scenery there doesn't live up to expectations, I don't mind. Go to the distance. Let the soul find stillness and simplicity."

This isn't melodrama. It's the stubbornness every long-distance cyclist understands.

Day 1: Guangzhou to Qingyuan Shitan Town – 151 km, 1,368 m Elevation Gain

At 7:04 AM, we held a "march north" ceremony outside a breakfast shop. I'd ridden the Guangzhou-to-Qingyuan stretch many times—familiar territory. The morning pace was relaxed. The real test began at the start of the Qinglian Highway. Once we entered the mountainous border region between Guangdong and Guangxi, climbing became the main event.

Trying to take a shortcut, we turned onto the X372 and X409 county roads. That decision haunted me for the entire afternoon: a continuous 4-kilometer climb with gradients hitting 13% to 15%. My legs felt like lead. My breathing was like a bellows. I didn't even have the strength to pull out my phone for a photo.

But that's cycling for you—every hill you grit your teeth and conquer repays you with a downhill rush. When a glorious 6-kilometer descent swept me forward, with golden dusk spreading across the countryside, all the exhaustion melted away in an instant.

That evening, we checked into the Chaoyang Hotel in Shitan Town. A 100-yuan standard room with its own small courtyard. Not bad. The only downside? I had to carry my bike up to the third floor. Dinner cost 88 yuan for two—a worthy reward for the first day's "appetizer."

Key Takeaway for Long-Distance Cyclists: County roads can be scenic but brutal. Check elevation profiles before taking shortcuts.

[Link: Best budget hotels for cycling tours in Guangdong]

Day 2: Shitan Town to Lianzhou Dabian Town – 145 km, 1,313 m Elevation Gain

At 6:55 AM, we set off in the early light. The morning air in the Guangdong-Guangxi border region carried the scent of grass and dew. For someone who spends most of the year in a "concrete jungle," this was paradise.

At 9:40 AM, we arrived at Qigong Town—a fork in the road and a farewell point. My riding partner would head west toward Lianzhou, then back to his hometown in Hunan. I would continue north, officially beginning my solo journey. We patted each other on the shoulder, said "See you in Guangzhou in two weeks," and turned our handlebars in opposite directions. It wasn't exactly sad, but there was definitely an emptiness.

The Most Hair-Raising Moment of the Entire Journey

Around 5:30 PM, near Wulichong Village, a silver minivan with a Guangdong license plate caught my attention. As I passed, I caught a glimpse—four or five men in bright orange work pants were sitting inside. After I rode past, I had the feeling the driver spat out the window. I didn't think much of it and kept going.

But a few minutes later, that minivan suddenly overtook me from behind and pulled over on the roadside ahead. My heart tightened. Instinctively, I swerved toward the middle of the road—if they were going to open the door and drag me in, I'd at least have room to escape. Just then, I heard them shout something. I pedaled furiously, charging into a small village square across the street. I looked back. The minivan had turned around and was following me.

Adrenaline hit like a wave. I pedaled like crazy into the village, catching a glimpse of the minivan stopping about 300 meters behind me. Three men got out—one walked to the back of the van, two disappeared into the village through a small path. Were they splitting up to corner me? I quickly scanned my surroundings. Only a couple of figures were at the village entrance. My rational mind screamed: while they're getting out, run.

I stomped on the pedals, pushing my speed past 25 km/h, and raced toward Xingzi Town, a few kilometers away. I kept looking back, making sure the van wasn't following. Only then did I breathe a little easier. When I reached Xingzi Town, I still didn't dare stop. I maintained a pace above 20 km/h and sped straight for Dabian Town, 14 kilometers further.

That night, lying in my room at the Shanzhuang Hotel, I replayed the whole thing. What were the chances of a robbery in broad daylight on a national highway? These days, everyone uses mobile payments. People carry almost no cash. There's nothing to steal. And the cost of crime is so high. I was probably overthinking it. But "caution is the mother of safety." This kind of alertness is probably the instinct every long-distance cyclist needs to maintain in unfamiliar territory.

Safety Tip for Solo Cyclists: Trust your instincts. If something feels wrong, change your route or speed up. Your intuition is your best defense.

[Link: Solo cycling safety tips for China's highways]

Day 3: Dabian Town to Chenzhou Matian Town, Hunan Province – 152 km, 1,254 m Elevation Gain

I had two bowls of instant noodles for breakfast at the hotel and set off at 7:20 AM. After about an hour, I saw the sign marking the border between Guangdong and Hunan on National Highway G107. For a moment, I was emotional. This was the first time I'd cycled out of Guangdong Province. I'd driven across the Taklamakan Desert before. I'd taken a ferry for the Hainan island loop. I'd given up halfway through the Sichuan-Tibet route. But this time, I had finally ridden across a provincial border.

But the day didn't go smoothly. All morning, my body just wouldn't cooperate. I couldn't find a rhythm. My speed was sluggish. And my backside was killing me. After some analysis, I blamed the two seams on my underwear. So at lunch, I performed a little "surgery"—I cut the seams off my underwear, hoping to relieve the pain.

By 4:00 PM, I'd only covered 100 kilometers, reaching Guiyang County. My original plan was to make it to Matian Town, 152 kilometers away. But given my state, I considered stopping at Yangshi Town, just 124 kilometers in. Then I adjusted my cadence and found a rhythm for the rolling hills. When I reached Yangshi Town at 6:00 PM, I hesitated, then decided to push on. I finally rolled into Matian Town at 7:28 PM, having ridden 45 minutes in the dark, and checked into the Jindu Hotel.

Lesson Learned: A sore backside is the number one enemy of speed. Cycling shorts might be uncomfortable, but in a pinch, they're a lifesaver.

[Link: Best cycling shorts for long-distance touring]

Day 4: Matian Town to Hengshan County, Hengyang – 160 km, 690 m Elevation Gain

Today's biggest "surprise" came from a dog.

Around the 80-kilometer mark, a dog suddenly shot out from the roadside, barking furiously and chasing me. Luckily, I was prepared. Strapped to my rear rack was a one-inch-thick plastic pipe—a "dog-beating stick" I'd found at home before leaving. I pedaled hard while pulling out the pipe and swinging it in the dog's direction. After about twenty or thirty meters, the dog finally gave up.

Pro Tip for Long-Distance Cyclists: Carry a "dog-beating stick." It can be a trekking pole or a plastic pipe. It's useful for scaring off dogs, snakes, or other "uninvited guests," and it won't get you in trouble with the police as a weapon.

[Link: How to handle aggressive dogs while cycling]

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. What is the best time of year for a long-distance cycling journey from Guangzhou to Beijing?

Autumn (September to November) is ideal. The weather is mild, with less humidity than summer and fewer rainstorms. The scenery is also beautiful as leaves change color in northern China.

2. How should I prepare physically for a 2,000-kilometer cycling trip?

Start training at least 2-3 months in advance. Focus on building endurance through long weekend rides (100+ km), core strength for back support, and hill climbing practice. Also, get your bike professionally serviced before departure.

3. What should I pack for a solo cycling journey in China?

Essentials include: a reliable bike with touring tires, repair kit (spare tubes, pump, multi-tool), cycling shorts, hydration system, navigation device (phone with offline maps), first-aid kit, high-visibility clothing, lights, and a "dog-beating stick" for safety.

4. How do I stay safe while cycling alone on Chinese highways?

Always trust your instincts. Avoid riding after dark. Stay on major national highways (G-series) when possible. Carry a power bank for your phone. Share your location with a friend or family member daily. And as mentioned, carry a deterrent for aggressive dogs.

5. What is the approximate budget for a 15-day cycling trip from Guangzhou to Beijing?

Budget around 150-250 yuan per day for accommodation (budget hotels), food, and incidentals. Total cost: approximately 2,500-4,000 yuan for the journey, plus bike maintenance and emergency funds.

Conclusion: The Road Ahead Awaits

This solo cycling journey from the Pearl River to the Great Wall was more than just a physical challenge. It was a test of mental resilience, a lesson in trusting your instincts, and a reminder that the best adventures often begin when plans fall apart.

Every hill conquered, every dog chased away, every moment of doubt overcome—they all led to that final moment when I stood at the foot of the Great Wall, exhausted but exhilarated. The 2,000 kilometers had transformed me. Not just physically, but spiritually.

Are you ready to start your own cycling adventure? Whether you're dreaming of a weekend ride or a cross-country epic, the road is waiting. Start planning today. Pack your bags. Check your tires. And remember: the distant horizon is always worth chasing.

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[Link: Complete guide to planning a solo cycling trip in China] [Link: Best cycling routes from Guangzhou to Beijing] [Link: Essential gear checklist for long-distance cycling]

Note: This article is based on a true story from autumn 2019. Distances and elevations are approximate and based on the author's GPS data.